On our continuing venture through the wine appellations of Italy, we are working our way north, hoping to enjoy some fine reds as we go through our mid Winter freeze here.  The Mediterranean climate of the south of Italy still sees some cool temperatures, but not like the single digits we are enduring right now.  So grab your imagination (and maybe even your airline ticket!) and get ready for a little history on Basilicata (Bahzil ee kaht ah).  Located at the bottom of “the boot”, it is bordered by Campagnia, Puglia and the Tyrrhenian Sea and was classified as a DOC in 1971. Aglianico del Vulture is currently the only DOC in the region. It covers a broad area west of the city of Potenza, with a mix of volcanic and clay soils. The wines produce a deep ruby red color, medium to light tannins, and offer succulent red fruit flavors. One year of aging is all that is required by the DOC, but most wines are aged 3 to 9 years and improve considerably given that time.  The Aglianico (ahh lee ahn ee ko) varietal has Greek roots, derived from the word “Hellenic”, meaning Greek; as there are no native grapes in Basilicata.  Aglianico is considered a very noble grape in the south of Italy- even referred to by some as “The Barolo of the South”,  and is made in varying styles based on terroir and the winemaker’s art.  Basilicata was originally called Lucania, meaning forest; the Byzantines later renamed the area Basilicata, meaning governor.  After WWII the region became a growing agricultural area.  However,  in the 1960′s and 70′s methane fields were discovered, which brought with them petro and chemical plants, the building of industry.  The volcano Monte Vulture makes for the acidic soils, and the mountain and rocky soils provide good vineyard sites, although seismic activity has been reported, including a major earthquake in 1980.  There are more ideal places to grow grapes, however, the few wineries producing Aglianico wine in Basilicata are award winning.  Italy’s major food and wine magazine the Gambero Rosso has a system of measure for wines called “Biccheri” or glass, wines that receive “Tre Biccheri”, or three glasses, are considered the best, but one or two glasses from the Biccheri are also noteworthy.  It’s kind of like our publications awarding a point system, instead of stars or numbered points, the Gambero Rosso awards “Tre Biccheri”, three glasses, to the best of the best.

There are also IGT wines, (Indicazione Geografic Tipica) a lesser level than DOC in Basilicata, where there is more blending, often with Cabernet and Merlot grapes, and the wines are reasonably priced.  In 2010 the Aglianico region was awarded full DOCG Superiore status.  With that came an increase in price and slight increase in production and export of their wines. Not necessarily a bad thing.

Try the 2001 Basilium Aglianico del Vulture Riserva DOC with a silky mouthfeel, nose of rose petals, light pepper and spice, made from 100% Aglianico, around $17 - found on line.  You could ask your local retailer to see if they can bring something in for you from a few of the regions, and taste Aglianico from several appellations to compare.  Might be a good reason to have a party with some interesting winess,  maybe after the Superbowl.

The next region of Italy we are exploring is Puglia, bordering the Adriatic, and literally the “heel of the boot”.  In ancient times only the northern tip of the peninsula was referred to as “Apulia”.  Puglia is the largest wine producing region in Italy, the most common red wine varietals sourced are Negro Amaro (neg row ah mahr oh) and Primativo (pree mah tee voh).

Primativo was introduced in the 18th Century, the clones of which are believed to be the root of the American red Zinfandel grape.  It is a bit less alcoholic in the Italian version, yet still deep, dark red with flavors of black plum, cherries and pepper.  Primativo is an early ripening grape and Primativo is a DOC (Denomionazion di Origine Controllata) of Puglia, one of 8.  Look for the Amano Primativo, around $10.

Negro Amaro is more rustic in flavor than Primativo, with stronger red fruit flavors.  It is often blended with other varietals, yet it still stands on its own.  Negro means black and Amaro means bitter.  It is more difficult to find on the shelf as well, look for the Salice Salentino, which is a blend made of mostly Negro Amaro grapes, around $12.

White wine varietals take a back seat in this region, but are still produced and available.  A native varietal closely related to Trebbiano, called Bombino Bianco, also Verdecco; there’s Chardonnay aged in oak barrels produced there, as well as Malvasia and Sauvignon Blanc. Puglia has cities like Brindisi (though not very touristy), Gargano with its ancient ruins, and Bari- where you can ferry to Greece.  Puglia is not a typical beach front region, and still has miles of private beaches that are not commercialized.  Many Northern Italians and British alike, have made the region a vacation spot.  So you can enjoy history, architecture, agriculture, beaches, fresh seafood restaurants, and local wines.  Are you packing?

A great way to get through the Winter months is to explore some International wine regions.  I have often thought should I ever visit Italy, I might not return.  The cooking, the gardens, the hillsides and vineyards, the history, the museums, the WINE!  Starting in Southern Italy, the Region of Campania is home to the City of Naples, Mount Vesuvius, and some interesting wines.  The Romans originally grew grapes in the region called “Campus” or “plain”, though history shows grape growing dates back to the 13th century BC.  The Latin “campania felix” means fertile country.  Naples is where pizza and pasta got a reputation, but not that many winemakers.  It has not produced wines as noteworthy as say, Tuscany, the region famous for Chianti.   Incidentally, the region produces slightly more white wine varietals than red. The best known red wine of Campania is called the “Tears of Christ” or Lachrima Christi, or Lacrima or Lacryma.  There are several versions of the story as well as the spelling; however, the most famous says that when Lucifer fell from Heaven, Christ cried his tears onto the beautiful land below, creating the ruts where the lava flowed.  The lands surrounding Vesuvius are noted viticultural  areas, and volcanic soils often make for some of the best terroir for wine.  To be labeld “La Crima Christi” the wine itself must have at least one to one and one half percent more alcohol than others from the Vesuvio region. The Lachrima Christi has a beautiful ruby color, with red fruit flavors, strawberry, raspberry and violets, and a hint of white pepper.  The varietal used is Piedirosso (pee dee roe soh), which translated means “red feet” and refers to the red root ends of the vine.  The 2003 DeAngelis Lacrima Christi del Vesuvio retails around $14.

Taurasi (tour ahh see) is another noted red from Campagnia and is made from the varietal Aglianico (ah leeh ahn ee koh).  This wine is a deep ruby color, also with red fruit flavors, plum and cinnamon with a dry finish.  The wine is ancient, as is the town of Taurasi, which it is named for.  Look for the 2004 Feudi di San Gregorio Taurasi, around $18.

Another grape produced in this area is Barbera. Barbera (barr behr uh) is one of the most widely planted grapes in all of Italy, and is often used for blending.  The climate of Campania is mild and Mediterranean, and it is the second most populated area in Italy, with over 5 million people.  It is rich in cultural history, the production of tomatoes, olives, milk (fresh mozzarella) and nuts. When do we leave?

Whether you’re doing it up at home, watching Dick Clark’s Rockin Eve and waiting for the ball to drop at a house party, or making a reservation at your favorite restaurant- there is always a toast at midnight.  A multitude of Champagne choices, sparkling and still wines are available for just this occasion. Whatever you are enjoying as we say goodbye to 2011 and welcome in 2012, I hope it is with wonderful bubbly, wonderful friends, wonderful memories, and wonderful hopes for the future year.
The first time I learned about “The Widow” was 1985.  I was sipping from a bottle of one of the most famous Champagne houses in the World, Veuve Clicquot, at one of Albany’s finest restaurants on Lark Street (and I wasn’t of leagal drinking age…).  The house was founded in 1772 by Phillipe Clicquot Muiron.  His son Francois married Barbe Nicole Ponsardin in 1798.  When Francois passed away in 1805, he left control of the winery to his widow “Veuve”  in French.  The Madame had great success with the Champagne house, and is credited with developing a new riddling system.  The wine making term is used to describe the rotating of the bottles in sparkling wine making, as they are aging.  Their method had the bottles positioned upside down for easier handling while turning, and has been adapted all over the world.  There are many interesting “how to” videos on the Internet that explain and show this, as well as “methode Champenoise” which is the traditional French way of making Champagne, adding yeast and creating a secondary fermentation, which causes Carbon Dioxide, which gives you bubbles!

There are several selections from the Veuve Clicquot house of Champagne, the most popular is the “Yellow Label” around $40.  The “Grand Dame” is a vintage high end that can run upwards of $100 a bottle.  No matter what you’re toasting with or to this year, may your New Year be filled with happiness, good health, great wine, and prosperity.  Cheers!

I somehow have the Jeff Foxworthy theme in my head, only instead of “you might be a redneck”, it’s “don’t give ‘em that”.   If you have friends that are “wine snots” and you’re thinking about giving them a bottle of wine this holiday season, don’t give them “grocery store wine”, among other things.  By this, I mean wines that are mass produced jug varietals. The labels you see on the bottom shelf at every single wine shop you run into. 

If you have friends who fancy themselves wine connoisseurs, don’t give them anything “too cheap”.  This means, anything under $12 a bottle, unless you know they know the wine and love it, or have sampled it yourself and feel it is superior.  The connoisseurs of the world tend to look down on anything too inexpensive.  There are many labels out there between $10 and $25 a bottle that absolutely rock.  Trust in your wine store expert to guide you if you really don’t know what to buy. 

If you have friends who only drink one label, and that’s all they ever bring anywhere and serve always, don’t give them anything else. Now is not the time to try to change their palette or turn them onto something if they are steadfast on their brand.

If you are bringing a hostess gift and are unsure what the hosts like, Champagne or Sparkling wine  is never wrong.  If they don’t touch the stuff, they can re-gift it or cook with it, or serve it immediately. 

 Don’t bring/give a bottle of White Zinfandel; this is commonly referred to as a “starter wine”.  I am personally thrilled with any wine drinker, no matter the flavor, wine is wine.  Enjoying wine with a meal not only has health benefits, if it’s sweet, dry, sparkling or still, and compliments your meal- that’s wonderful.  I have a delicious Chicken with Wine recipe using an entire bottle of White Zinfandel.  There is that old adage “If you can’t drink it, don’t cook with it”.

Don’t bring/give a bottle of California ”Burgundy” or “Chablis”.  These are blends with generic names.  If you want to give a good bottle of Burgundy or Chablis, it is coming from France, where it is grown and originated, and it is not going to be inexpensive ($25 into the hundreds of dollars for a quality Chateau).  There’s always house plants!

Don’t bring a wine you pulled out of the “close out” bin from your local retailer.  There’s a reason those wines have been reduced- whether it’s old vintage, bad label or tired juice, tis the season to be better safe than sorry (or cheap).  If you can’t afford to buy your favorite wine snot a nice bottle, then bring them something other than wine you can afford (breakfast for the party hosts is always nice- bagels or muffins for the day after).  It will be appreciated, rather than poured down the drain or, best case- made into punch or sangria!  Chances are your hosts will be gracious no matter your  choice.  If you MUST bring a wine, and you really don’t know what to do, again, trust in your local retailer.  I once had a consumer tell me they were looking to buy a wine for a “Secret Santa” gift and they had but $8 to spend.  I steered them toward some nice little wine choices that no matter who got the secret gift, it would not be a disappointment.  There are even some great half bottle (375 ml) choices out there.  There are bargains to be had, and you don’t need to think too hard if you ask the experts for help.

It’s crunch time, we’re down to the last week before Christmas- distributors and suppliers are in the final push for year end sales, and are making great deals with retailers.  If you don’t get good service and advice, go down the block to the next guy- you’re out doing your last minute shopping anyway.  The Albany/Saratoga area has many quality, well educated wine and spirits retailers who will happily guide your gift purchases.  Enjoy, and remember to drink responsibly.

The time has come- Thanksgiving is over, the Christmas music is blaring at every retail establishment and gas station you pull in to. The holiday advertising is just about every other commercial on television. If you haven’t broken out the holiday decorations, then maybe it’s time to break out a bottle of Sparkling Shiraz from down Under to get the ball rolling.  Or if eggnog is more your style, then maybe a traditional “Rompope” from Mexico will get you into the spirit.  There’s a dessert like Chocolate wine available, too.  Pick your flavor.

The Australians celebrate the Christmas holiday in the green. It is summer after all, at the other side of the world. The Aussies still hang mistletoe, wreaths, and decorate evergreen trees. Poinsettias are a tropical plant (could be why they die on me before season’s end) and the Mexicans enjoy Rompope, and don’t just drink their traditional eggnog, they cook with it too. Seems we all celebrate the holiday in one form or another, no matter what part of the world. So let us look at a Christmas celebration drink from Australia- Chocolate Box, 2009 Sparkling Shiraz from Rocland Estate, around $19. The wine is made similar to that of Champagne, only it is 100% Shiraz grapes. It is dark and fruity, like a still Shiraz, but the bubbles and lightness make it more of an aperitif or celebration wine.

In the warmth of Mexico, Rompope is made with egg yolks, milk, sugar and alcoholic spirits, and is a traditional Mexican drink for special celebrations and this time of year.  American egg nog is usually made from Bourbon, and Spanish eggnog usually has rum.  This Mexican version is said to have originated in the 17th Century from the Convento de Santa Clara.  Santa Clara Rompope, around $13, is available in Nuez (nut) or regular.  It is made from all natural ingredients, and a neutral cane alcohol is used to get it the 26 proof.  There is even a cake recipe on the back label of the bottle. 

There is also the recent trend of Chocolate & Wine, a blend of fermented grape juice, cream and chocolate flavors, now  available with the additional flavor of espresso or berries.  Usually a full glass is a bit heavy, but over ice, or just a snifter, even a shot in some coffee, provides a sweet, holiday warmth to get that tree up and covered in lights.  Cocoa di Vine Chocolate & Wine.  Around $9.99

Here’s to happy tree trimming!  Salute’!  If you and your family have a tradionional drink you’d like to share that gets your holiday going, don’t hesitate to share.

Vin Santo is a traditional Italian dessert wine, thick and syrupy, amber gold in color, with aromas of caramel and honey.  So far, I’ve celebrated two Thanksgiving dinners and hosted one holiday party, and still havn’t had a piece of pumpkin pie.  So a quiet weeknight turned into a dessert party of the season- complete with a decadent wine. 

A simple crust, a hint of nutmeg, the pumpkin pie itself is not that sweet.  Eggs, evaporated milk, brown sugar, bowls, measuring spoons, and a rolling pin for the dough.  The recipe is simple.  While the pie bakes, I take a look at the stash that is my wine refrigerator.  The house begins to take on the aroma of  all spice- and the feeling of warmth from the oven, the air of the holidays- almost makes me want to decorate!  Instead, I find a treasure in a small bottle of vintage pleasure.  While the pie cools, the wine chills in the regular refridgerator- I want it served around 45 to 50 degrees.  Taking a bite of slightly warm pumpkin pie with a delicious and unctuous dessert wine from Italy,  is heaven. 

Carpineto is an established, award winning winery from Tuscany, since 1967.  The Vin Santo is a special wine that is aged over ten years in combination of traditional chestnut barrels “caratelli”,  oak barrels (barrique) oak cask, and finally bottle.  It is made from a combination of Malvasia (mahl vaze ee uh) and Trebbiano (treb bee ah no) grapes that are air dried until most of the moisture has evaporated.  The wine can be enjoyed on it’s own, as an aperitif, with stronger cheeses, or in this case, a little pumpkin.

If you get the chance to enjoy a dessert wine over the holidays, or share the gift of decadent sweetness, look for this artfully made Italian specialty.  Carpineto Farnito Vinsanto del Chianti 1992 around $50 for 500ml. or half bottle.  Suppose, instead of cookies and milk, if you leave Santa a little pumpkin pie and Vin Santo, he might leave something like car keys under your tree?

You may have leftover turkey, but you shouldn’t have leftover wine. However, if you opened far too many bottles for Thanksgiving dinner (really?) and there a few open bottles laying around- here are a few suggestions…

I have been told that red wine can be used to dye clothes.  Stands to reason, if you are wearing light colored clothing and are drinking red wine, inevitably the stain is permanent should you spill.  I have not tried this at home, but imagine it would work, just like tie dye.  The longer the fabric soaks, the darker it will turn.

Vinegar for salad dressing- this ones seems like a great solution to a few ounces leftover in a bottle.  Wine oxidizes over time and can easily turn into vinegar.  Mix it with olive oil, a few spices, and viola, you have a unique, home made salad dressing.  I once knew someone who added sprigs of fresh herbs to leftover white wine and used it for cooking.

Cooking- use a splash of leftover wine to de glaze your pan while sauteing. There is an old saying “If you can’t drink it, don’t cook with it.” Wine can be great for braising meats and even break down some of the tougher cuts.

Skin softener.  Wine and grapes are being added to lotions and potions, and using leftover wine in your facial wash is not out of the question.  Seriously, you can’t make this stuff up.

Chardonnay for the tummy- I have also heard that white wine, in particular, Chardonnay, is good for the digestive tract.  Keep it a few days longer in the fridge and use it as a digestive’.  I can only tell you from experience that too much Chardonnay can also wreak havoc on the gut.

Sangria- make your own Sangria by pouring together all of your leftover bottles in a punch bowl,, add fresh cut up fruit, some ice cubes  and a splash of brandy.

Share bottles with friends or neighbors.  I have a neighbor who says it’s a sin to throw away any kind of wine- sharing leftover wine that will be consumed in a day or so can make you new friends.  Maybe have a neighborhood “Leftover party” where everyone brings their leftovers, and nobody leaves until it’s gone.

There are a few different kinds of preservation systems available, too.  The little plastic “pumps” that pull air out of the top of the bottle and help keep the wine from souring, or the argon gas; the canisters that you spray into your open bottles with inert gas to help preserve flavor.  Remember though, any still wine that has been open four days or more is very likely spoiled, or oxidized.  Because wine is a living, breathing thing, air contributes to its death, or turns it to vinegar, literally.  Dessert wines are a different category, generally higher in sugar content, and will last much longer after being opened.  Pump them or simply re seal and leave in the refrigerator.  The “nose knows”;  you can often tell by the smell once you pour the wine into the glass whether it has “turned”.

Hopefully you didn’t have too many leftovers, whether it’s turkey, trimmings, or vino.  Wine is a terrible thing to waste.

If you’re not restricting yourself to simply American wines for your Thanksgiving holiday table, there are many options available that will be great matches for the array of foods this meal brings. Never has there been such a blend of flavors than the “family style” meal of Thanksgiving. Traditional dishes like Roasted Turkey, mashed potatoes with gravy and herb stuffing are being added on to with flavors robust and varied.  Apple stuffing, roasted squash, wild rice, spicy corn casserole, oyster dressing with bacon… the list goes on.  Maybe Wild Mushroom gravy is served along with your bird. Maybe you’re serving a full honey Ham along side, with a sweet potato pie, or traditional scalloped potatoes?  Roasted Chestnuts anyone?  These dishes, served in courses or paired off in groups would be easy matches for certain wine varietals, but throw them all on the table at once and it is a Sommelier’s challenge to find wines that will suit all of the flavors, and all of the diners!

A fine Riesling from Germany, priced on the shelf anywhere from $10 to $50 a bottle, would be a terrific matching white wine to serve.  Look for something on the dryer side with minerality, yet enough residual sugar to stand up to those yams and cranberries.  A German Gewurztraminer  (guh vurzt truh mean er) or GUH VERTZ for short, is also a fruity, minerally great choice with a dry finish for the abundance of flavors at Thanksgiving.

If you like Sauvignon Blanc, consider then a Chenin Blanc (shen inn blahnk) from South Africa, or white wine from France’s Loire Valley -Sancerre (sahn sare) or even a Pouilly Fume (pooh ee foo may) which is the Sauvignon Blanc grape.  These wines will be medium bodied and have good fruit qualities, some mineral and some citrus, as well as flavors of apricot and nectarine. 

If you prefer to drink red wine, there are many more options, from all over the world.  Remember the Beaujolais Nouveau Festival last week?  It is a light and fruity French red from the Beaujolais (bow juh lay) region, released on the 3rd Thursday of November annually.  It is fresh, inoffensive and could work well with the varying foods.  Bigger budget?  A beautiful Burgundy from the Cote D’Or would be fabulous with your bird and the trimmings.  Like the reds a little heartier?  A Pinotage from South Africa will be a little bit smokey, and have some good fruit flavors.  A Carmenere (car muhn air) from Chile is yet another option, a varietal that originated from France, it is being made in Chile in bulk, so you can find a bargain for under $10 a bottle, or some boutique, highly rated Carmenere for upwards of $30 a bottle.

American wines such as Pinot Noir or red Zinfandel will give you completely different meal experiences, the Pinot, soft and subtle, the Zin, higher in alcohol, fruit and more bold, with a spicy finish.  As long as you choose a wine that you like, you’re sharing it with family and friends, you’ll have plenty to be thankful for.  Have a safe and happy holiday.

Our forefathers shared wine with the Indians at the Thanksgiving table. The Native Americans had been fermenting grape juice since it was discovered, quite accidentally, with a “late harvest”.  Thanksgiving itself is a celebration of the Autumn table, the sharing of the bountiful Fall crops dating back to the beginning of this country.  I remember as a small child, my Mother breaking out a few Thanksgiving decorations.  There were tiny wax figures of a male and female Pilgrim, dressed in gray, a huge, colorful turkey, and an Indian in full dress.   She had assorted other items, ceramic pumpkins,  leaves and decorative fruit, but the wax figures I played with for hours.  I planned their feast around what my Mother was planning to put on the table for our family meal.

Over the years the menu has only varied slightly.  I think we went through a “phase” of  a few dishes made with cool whip and jellied fruit, there was cole slaw, and a baked canned sweet potato dish with mini marshmallows.  Now that my niece is hosting in her new home, there will be other additions, perhaps a Venison Sausage stuffing- her husband an avid hunter.   The Italian nephew will likely bring some home made cookies from his own Mother, laced with Sambuca.  My Mom, at 80, is still making the traditional Slovak pastry, the same recipe her mother in -law handed down to her, and she to me.

This year, I will be bringing American wine to the Thanksgiving family table.  The cultural melting pot that is our family are not huge wine drinkers (there will be football and beer, of course) but since it is so in my blood, I am providing this addition. 

Turkey, by itself, pairs well with many kinds of wine.  However, when you add a mushroom gravy, you are adding earthiness to the flavor profile.  When you add the sweet red cranberry sauce, that’s an acidic and berry element.  Never mind the olives, green bean casserole, and oyster dressing!  I have chosen two wines from the same wine making family in Oregon;  Primarius.  (pry mare ee us).  The winery makes both a Pinot Gris (white) and a Pinot Noir (red).  Both are made in the style of Burgundy.  This means the grapes are planted at the same degree latitude as that of Burgundy, France, and the wine maker has helped them taste similar in style to wine of that region, both by where the grapes are planted, to the amount of French oak aging.  Primarius is part of a wine making group out of Washington State that owns property in Oregon- where some of the best American Pinot Noir is made.  The 2007 Pinot Gris (pee no gree) will work with many of the flavors on the Thanksgiving table.  Aromas of  Jasmine and mineral flavors, nectarine and apple, available around $12.99.  This will match with squash and pumpkin, mashed potatoes, oysters and plain white meat turkey the best.  The 2009 Pinot Noir is one of my favorites. Flavors of strawberry, rhubarb, raspberry and vanilla notes.  The slight earthiness and touch of pepper on the finish of the wine would do well with any sort of mushrooms on the table, herbed gravy, as well as work with the cranberries or other sweet flavors.  Around $14.99.

No Thanksgiving meal ever goes completely flawless, whether you’re pairing cousins, or matching food and wine.  I am thankful for family, friends, good food, and fine wine to be shared, no doubt, briefly, but appreciatively.